In paradise of blue

The first time I walked into L'Olivier a ceramics gallery and shop on the Greek island of Naxos, I felt an edge of excitement that is all too rare for a hardened travel writer. It was some years ago, late evening, early summer. I was in the little village of Halki at the center of mountainous Naxos, the biggest island in the Cyclades, that great loop of islands that boasts such world-famous destinations as Santorini, Mykonos and sacred Delos in the heart of the Aegean Sea.