Monday, June 9, 2008

The best Greek island tavernas

Feasting on, more like. There was a fisherman’s relish - “made with rabbit, because Greek islands always have so many rabbits running wild on them,” he explained to any of us silly enough to suppose that Greek island cooking is all about seafood and salads.

A stifado of aubergines. A chicken terrine, in which the meat all seemed to have that tender, moist quality of those plum bits on the underside of a a bird, known as ‘oysters’. Octopus, wonderfully mauve. Cubes of rare tuna wrapped in vine leaves, and more rabbit, stewed with leeks and peas...

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