KEA, Greece – Father Lefteris – habit flowing, serving tray in hand – exits the kitchen and glides into the monastery's shaded courtyard. The middle-aged Greek Orthodox priest is carrying a half-litre carafe filled with what looks like water. Only it isn't water.
The shot glasses give it away.
"Some `white coffee'?" he proffers, a twinkle in his eye.
He is euphemistically referring to the locally distilled raki, a clear variety of firewater similar to grappa in its powerful kick and alarming capacity to inebriate.
"Bravo," he says when a visitor refills his own glass after the first round.